The denim catalog for men 2024

Unlock Editor’s Digest for free

Roula Khalaf, editor of the FT, picks her favorite stories in this weekly newsletter.

Men, my mother reminded me, were blessed with many things in life, among them “big legs.” But while it’s good to flaunt what you’ve got, few men I know would embrace skinny jeans today. “Skinny had its moment, but that moment is not now,” says designer and self-described “denim expert” Benjamin Talley Smith. Instead, like other styles, he looks for straight and even wider legs.

---

Straight legs

Re/Donethe specialist in vintage reconstruction, offers a desirable straight-leg cut with its 1401s, which come in various shades of worn-in blue (£350). For a darker, smarter wash, Community clothes‘s Loose Arran Jeans (£99.50) are made from locally recycled cotton and feature a warp-stitched hem. Cult denim brand Agold has recently expanded to men’s. The 90s jean (from £280) is among the best mid-size styles and is available in 11 washes.

---

Raw denim

For a more lifted work jean, try wearing something stiff. Brooklyn-based denim designer Shawn Joswick has worked exclusively with Japanese raw materials since 2000. “NO STRETCH DENIM. Woffffff,” he writes via email. “I like jeans cut on the hem (the finished edge of the fabric)”. Current favorites include Tuxedo Jean ($450), which features a twisted hem and subtle bow legs, and J001 Full Cut Straight Jean ($400) with leather tag. “Think Sidney Poitier The defiant” he says. APC‘s raw selection is another classic. Try the Aaron (£210), which offers a wide leg, or the Standard (£215) for straight and classic lines. APC’s Butler program means you can bring back your used jeans and exchange them for a new raw indigo pair at half price.

---

Bootcut

Brad Pitt has been wearing bootcuts ever since his performance as stunt double Cliff Booth in Quentin Tarantino’s 2019 Once Upon A Time… in Hollywood (he wore vintage Levi’s). Find your 70s flare with other places Janerica‘s “Odeon” mid-high (£190). London-based stylist and bootcut connoisseur Eddie Wailes also swears by Acne’s “true-to-size” studio cut.

---

Baggy

Axel Arigato‘s relaxed-fit Zine jeans (£185) are the perfect ‘baggy’ segue, and their non-stretch gives them a semi-structured fit. London-based YMC has also made a loose-fit version in organic cotton (£195, farfetch.com); the brand’s new creative director Sage Toda-Nation is particularly partial to a “wider, slightly arched leg.”

---

Baggies

For those who like extra roomy jeans, Acne StudiosLoose and Baggy fit jeans (from £300) span multiple prints and colorways from indigo to pink. “All the young guys go as far as carrying JNCO (from £104) again,” says Talley Smith. “Super wide jeans that cover your shoe and have big pockets.”

---

Slim fit

Still looking for a “skinny” fix? Then try J Crew’s slim-fit (from £132) as a good compromise. Or try Classical (£165) for a slightly higher rise and fuller legs.

---

Something different

In Japan’s Okayama prefecture, Kapital thrives on embellishments from punchy patchwork to silver studs. These bejeweled Monkey Cisco (£695, mrporter.com) jeans are the perfect party wear. For a more hands-on approach, Wales Bonner‘s AW24 offering includes a pleated front and back style in indigo with a crochet side stripe best worn over boots (£695); meanwhile, Junya Watanabe has collaborated with Levi’s on straight-leg jeans, featuring a dark wash, khaki patch pockets and belt loops (£508, mytheresa.com).

---

White jeans for winter?

Vintage collector Alessandro Squarzi is a big proponent of winter white, as is actor Jeff Goldblum. Rag & Bone makes an elegant tailored Straight Fit pair in stretchy ecru (£195). See also Levi‘s 568 Stay Loose (£100) for a more relaxed fit.